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The Quirimba Archipelago and Ilha do Ibo

The archipelago: Lat.12°10' to 13°10' South Long. 40°45' East Ibo island: Lat.12°21' South

What better home base for an adventurous East African dhow designed for exploration than one of the islands in the Quirimbas archipelago? 32 islands make up this group stretching from around 70km north of Pemba all the way up to the Tanzanian border. A few host exclusive lodges but most remain untouched by tourism, offering the visitor a chance to step into the past (without fear of being bundled off to a slave market)

The Quirimbas National Park was created in 2002 to protect the zone and encompasses an area of 7500km2, 1500 km2 of which is the marine component with 100km of coastline and eleven islands.

One very special island in the Archipelago, is IIha do Ibo, rich with ruins and in a state of decadent decay. Once the capital of the province, the 9km2 island was a prosperous and important trading post for, amongst others, Portuguese, Arabs, Persians, Indians and French slave traders. The crumbling ruins of once majestic colonial buildings, three forts and an intact church whisper fascinating secrets of life on the island as it was until the 1930s when the Portuguese moved en masse to the mainland of present day Pemba. Having first arrived at the archipelago in the early 16th Century, they had initially made Ilha das Quirimbas the capital, however after attacks from the sultanate of Zanzibar, this status was given to the island of Ibo and the fort of Sao Joao Baptista was constructed in 1791 to provide defense against Arabs, Madagascans and French pirates.

One can travel to find history and culture in many places in the world, but few offer the chance to see it so raw, unchanged and unexploited. Traditional dhows and fishermen go about their daily life as they have for centuries; seagoing vessels are crafted on the beach; intricate jewellery is created by silversmiths, the women harvest coffee and cassava and hunt octopus in the shallow waters. Wandering through the maze of villages or the ruined town visitors are welcomed by young and old. All that one needs to imagine is the splendour of a time when this place was a trading hub, bustling with foreign sailors and wealthy merchants, bargaining slaves, ivory and precious minerals. When based on the island before or after a sailing trip, there is so much to fit in. Definately pack an extra memory stick for the camera.

  • Hire a local guide to tour the island, leading you through the mangroves to the old lighthouse where you will find picturesque craggy coral enclaves leading to the sea (wear good walking shoes)
  • On a very low tide you can cross by foot to the adjacent Quirimbas island, enjoy the beaches, tour the coconut groves
  • Kayak around the island or just in and around the mangroves observing the abundant fauna and flora of this region
  • Meet with the fascinating local Iboan historian for colourful stories of the island during the past century
  • Watch the dhow builders with primitive tools fashion these practical wooden dhows from chunks of wood
  • Bring some locally bought material from the mainland and have it tailored into simply delightful clothing
  • Pull out your sketchpad and capture memories island style - slowly, slowly absorbing the tranquility

Ilha do Ibo is our home base and we are busy restoring the ruin of an old house and shop into our private residence. There are a few formal options of places to stay, and the promise of a campsite to come. See Getting to Ibo for more info on accommodation.

Arthur Telephone: +258 82 5116925 or alternatively sms to +32 489218566
Satellite phone: 881631546816 -Only try this number when no response from both of the above numbers
(send a free short message to this number via www.iridium.com otherwise standard costs apply for satellite calls)
Email: waterworks.moz@gmail.com
hearn.sarah@gmail.com

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